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The Business of Fashion Podcast

ByThe Business of Fashion
535 episodes

Podcast Summary

The Business of Fashion has gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 200 countries. It is frequently described as “indispensable,” “required reading” and “an addiction.” Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

#1

Why Hailey Bieber Won the Celebrity Beauty Lottery

Bieber, a celebrity and influential beauty figure with a strong Gen-Z following, launched Rhode just three years ago, quickly distinguishing the brand with minimalist product offerings closely tied to Bieber's personal aesthetic. She just sold to E.l.f. Beauty for $1 billion, even as rival celebrity beauty brands struggle to grow sales or attract buyers. Priya Rao, executive editor at The Business of Beauty at BoF, joins the Business of Fashion's Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Rhode distinguished itself in a crowded celebrity beauty landscape, why E.l.f. Beauty saw strategic value in the acquisition, and what this landmark deal signals about the evolving beauty industry.Key Insights: Rhode’s clean, minimal brand aesthetic also mirrors e.l.f.’s broader mission, albeit at a different price point. "There’s something about Rhode’s branding that really makes sense with what E.l.f. already does. They both want to be accessible but aspirational," Rao notes. Like Rhode, "E.l.f. has always had a really good sense of what young people want," says Rao.The success of Rhode demonstrates that differentiated, clearly communicated value propositions continue to resonate strongly in the beauty market. "From the consumer side, this just shows that the right brand can find the right price at any time, as long as you're able to point and show you offer something different," explains Rao.Rao highlights how rare it is for a celebrity beauty brand to resonate beyond hype. "Most celebrity beauty brands are not succeeding at this level," she says. Rhode’s limited and focused product assortment have also contributed to its success. "She's not launching everything under the sun," says Rao. "She’s focusing on what she knows and what her audience connects with, and that’s why it’s working."The acquisition isn't just about short-term gain – E.l.f. sees lasting value. "This isn't a flash in the pan for them," says Rao. "They’re betting on Rhode being a long-term growth eng...

2025-06-03•22mins
#2

Giancarlo Giammetti on Securing Valentino’s Legacy

Giancarlo Giammetti met Valentino Garavani by chance on July 31, 1960, setting in motion one of fashion’s most enduring — and most successful — creative partnerships. Together, they transformed Valentino into a global fashion powerhouse, celebrated for its elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural influence. In 2016, Giammetti co-founded the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their remarkable legacy, promote creativity, and foster charitable and educational initiatives.This week in Rome, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed had the honour of sitting down with Mr Giammetti at PM23, the newly opened home of the foundation, located right next to the Valentino headquarters where their journey together first began. In this exclusive interview, Mr Giammetti reflects on the founding days of Valentino, the importance of protecting creativity in a fashion market that prioritises commercialisation, and why it is critical for the industry to support future generations of designers who are overlooked by a fashion system under pressure.“This continuous change of people, using people to cover jobs … it makes a big confusion. None of them really becomes a part of the legacy of the company. That’s what is a big problem today,” says Giammetti. Key Insights: Giammetti highlights the strength of his decades-long partnership with Valentino, emphasising their deep personal and professional connection. “We grew up related so much to each other that we cannot be separate,” he says. “Even when we had some rupture in our private life, after a while, we kept our family. That’s why we have such a big family – because all of our friends became friends of our family with us.”Giammetti expresses concern about the fashion industry's current state, noting the disconnect between creative integrity and business pressures. "Designers have become their own stars, they have their own style, and they don’t want to really become a witness to the work of the companies where they are ...

2025-05-30•45mins
#3

Beauty Is in Its Flop Era

The beauty sector historically thrived during economic downturns, earning a recession-proof reputation encapsulated in the “lipstick index.” However, recent earnings from major beauty conglomerates like Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Coty and Shiseido indicate that beauty’s resilience is being tested. Sales are declining, layoffs are coming and consumer habits appear to be shifting dramatically. BoF Senior Beauty Correspondent Daniela Morosini joins Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young on The Debrief to examine what's driving this slowdown and how the industry is adapting.Key Insights: Traditionally, small luxury purchases like beauty products thrived during economic pressure. But the landscape has changed. “Prices have really, really grown, and there's just so much more to choose from,” says Morosini. The combination of escalating prices, excessive market saturation, and a shift to online platforms like Amazon and TikTok has diluted the impact of small luxury indulgences. "It's really hard to get seen. So even if you have a more affordable product that more people can afford, you still have to get people to come and look at you and come and interact with you," she adds.Brands once benefited from consistent replenishment and customer loyalty. Today, consumers are more transient, constantly seeking newness. “Customers seem to have this insatiable appetite for more products and more newness,” Morosini notes. But after years of heavy consumption, shoppers are starting to tire of new for the sake of new. “Something that’s really starting to come into focus is that, specifically, American middle-class shoppers are starting to buy fewer beauty products – and that’s having a big knock-on effect.”As consumers become more price-sensitive, brands need to redefine value beyond just pricing. Morosini suggests brands return to basics, emphasising their core strengths and fostering loyalty through consistent, quality products rather than frequent launches. "People are really, really a...

2025-05-27•24mins
#4

Inside The Great Luxury Reset

Instead of his usual place in the host’s seat, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed appears this week as a guest in an interview with Jonathan Wingfield, editor-in-chief of System Magazine, alongside Luca Solca, senior research analyst at Bernstein – as featured in the debut issue of System Collections.This conversation was recorded on March 14, about two weeks before Donald Trump’s shock announcement of so-called reciprocal tariffs on countries around the world, most notably China.Together, Amed and Solca explore major shifts in the global luxury market, the growing fatigue with high prices and mass production, and why creativity, innovation and strategic alignment between business and creative leadership are more crucial than ever.“These companies are run by human beings, and if you don't give people incentives to change, they will kill you. If you see that you're making as much money as you like, and the business is as good as it ever was, then you probably will not change very much,” says Solca. “Adjusting to a more normal environment is causing a lot of soul-searching and getting these companies back in line.”Amed adds: “Where brands work best is where there is that impeccable alignment between the creative leadership and the business leadership. Many creative directors feel like a lot of decision-making and creativity is being dictated to them rather than being in conversation with them."Key Insights:Excessive price hikes and product ubiquity are causing consumer pushback. Amed says, "When customers look at a €10,000 bag that used to cost half of that, there's real pressure because the value proposition no longer adds up." Solca stresses, "If people need to pay these prices, they must be excited; they need to feel they haven’t seen these products yet, and that they desire them." Amed adds, "Brands need to inject new creative energy to get customers excited again."In a stagnant market, luxury brands can no longer rely on organic demand and must compete aggressivel...

2025-05-23•1hr 9mins
#5

How Fashion Brands Build Community in 2025

As inflation bites and politics polarise, the fashion industry in 2025 is facing unprecedented pressure to hold onto its customers. Brands are looking to community as a deeper and more emotional form of engagement. But building true community takes more than buzzwords. In this episode, BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi joins hosts Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin to unpack his case study on what it really means to cultivate community in fashion and how brands are navigating the pitfalls.Key Insights: In a time when consumers are thinking hard about every purchase, community offers a sense of connection and meaning that goes beyond the product itself. "When I'm shopping today, I'm thinking more about what eggs I'm going to buy this week than the latest release from a brand," says Takanashi. "What really now drives me to make a purchase is like, what does this brand represent? What are its values? How has it improved my life beyond just something I wear?"Different communities serve different purposes, each demanding a unique approach. Takanashi outlines three community types: activity-based, personality-driven and values-driven. Activity-based communities are rooted in shared interests or habits, such as running, where engagement happens naturally through events or clubs. Personality-driven communities hinge on a founder’s charisma and relatability: "People have to see that founder story and kind of see themselves in their shoes." Values-driven communities connect through shared beliefs and causes, but those values must be dynamic. “Your definition of a value can’t be rigid,” says Takanashi. “You have to adapt to how consumers perceive these things.”As brands grow, scaling community takes local focus to remain authentic. "As long as you stay committed to a localized approach and understand that it’s not one size fits all," Takanashi says, pointing to Arc'teryx and Supreme as examples of brands that scale through local relevance and hiring. In addition to staying ...

2025-05-20•26mins
#6

Redefining "Made in Africa"

Africa is experiencing an exciting shift, creatively and commercially, with growing global attention on its rapidly expanding middle-class population. Yet, local fashion entrepreneurs must navigate unique operational challenges and misconceptions about the quality and reputation of "Made in Africa."Pink Mango’s Maryse Mbonyumutwa entered apparel manufacturing in Rwanda to address both economic and social sustainability. "[Africa] is sustainable by nature, as we've not fully industrialised yet," he says. Laduma Ngxokolo, founder of South African luxury knitwear brand MaXhosa Africa, drew inspiration from his culture's traditional designs: "How do we take local traditional aesthetics and modernise them?" he asked. To celebrate African creativity, Reni Folawiyo founded the concept store Alara in Nigeria. "I started Alara from a very emotional place to elevate African creators, both on the continent and the diaspora," Folawiyo says. "The idea of elevating but also empowering remains in everything we do."On this episode of The BoF Podcast, an illuminating conversation unfolds on stage at BoF CROSSROADS 2025, where Mbonyumutwa, Ngxokolo, and Folawiyo, alongside Sudanese-British writer Rozan Ahmed, discussed Africa's unique contributions to fashion, the opportunities in sustainable manufacturing, and how they are redefining what it means to produce, create and sell in Africa.Key Insights: Africa's potential lies in sustainable manufacturing and social responsibility. Mbonyumutwa explains, "Africa is here to offer social sustainability ... to make sure that now when we talk about environmental sustainability and social sustainability they are aligned."Local retail can powerfully celebrate and elevate global African creativity. Folawiyo's vision for Alara was clear. "I started Alara in a very emotional place. I wanted to celebrate African creators, both on the continent and in the diaspora. I wanted to elevate their work, because I hadn't seen it done anywhere else," she ...

2025-05-16•25mins
#7

Bonus: The Trade War’s Off, For Now. What's Next for Fashion?

On May 12, the US and China reached a deal to temporarily reduce tariffs for 90 days, offering a breather from an escalating trade war. Stocks surged on the news, but experts warn this relief might not fully resolve deeper industry uncertainties or consumer anxieties. BoF retail editor Cathleen Chen and technology correspondent Marc Bain join hosts Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to unpack the ramifications of the tariff pause and what the fashion industry can expect moving forward.Key Insights: Tariffs have reduced, but costs still remain high. The Trump administration’s initial 145 percent tariff effectively banned imports from China, a situation now alleviated but not fully resolved. "Lowering that to 30% is a different situation," Bain explains. "It's saying, go ahead, import your stuff, but it's gonna still be expensive."The tariff pause offers temporary clarity, but major production hubs like Vietnam and Cambodia face continuing uncertainty. "Depending on what happens with those negotiations, the whole landscape could shift," Bain notes, as retailers remain cautious about long-term production decisions.Tariffs are not the industry's only concern as consumer sentiment will significantly shape demand. "Beyond what's going to happen with tariffs with dozens of countries, there's also the issue of consumer confidence and sentiment and whether there will be demand to drive sales for the products that do end up in the U.S.," Chen highlights, questioning the robustness of future sales.Despite an easing in the tariff rate for small shipments from platforms like Shein and Temu, the overall uncertainty around the future of the “de minimis” loophole might dampen consumer enthusiasm. "All the news about Shein and Temu has been enough to just keep that customer away," Chen suggests. "I feel like there might be this attitude of, we had a good run of really cheap stuff for a couple of years and maybe you've had enough of it now."Brands should focus on diversifying th...

2025-05-15•32mins
#8

TikTok, Tariffs and Luxury's Fake News Problem

A strange new genre of TikTok videos is challenging long-held assumptions about how luxury products are made. Often shot in anonymous Chinese factories, these videos claim that the so-called "superfakes" flooding the market are indistinguishable from, and sometimes made in the same factories as, high-end bags from the likes of Chanel or Louis Vuitton. While all evidence points to these claims being false, the repetition of these videos has amplified a growing narrative: that luxury pricing is inflated, quality is slipping and production secrets are being exposed. Fuelled further by the U.S.-China tariff dispute and the allure of buying a $10,000 bag for $300, this narrative is resonating with a social media audience increasingly disillusioned with luxury’s mystique. In this episode, BoF's chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent joins hosts Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin to break down what’s really happening behind the scenes – and why silence might not be a viable strategy for brands much longer.Key Insights: TikTok's "superfake" narrative may be fiction, but it's feeding real consumer doubt. While only a few viral TikTok videos explicitly claim to produce fakes in the same factories as luxury goods, that idea has travelled widely and taken root. "It is supremely unlikely that any factory that had a real relationship with any luxury brand would go on TikTok to market superfakes," Kent notes. Yet the repetition of these claims underscores luxury's ongoing transparency issue. In the absence of accessible facts, falsehoods thrive.Today’s best craftsmanship isn’t always in Europe as high-quality manufacturing has shifted globally. “For instance, if you were making performance footwear or sneakers in particular, China, Cambodia, and Vietnam are probably the best factories you can find in the world to do that,” Kent explains. “If you want to make a luxury product of that quality, you probably don’t want to make that in France or Italy." The fake bag narrati...

2025-05-13•24mins

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#9

Modest Fashion at a Crossroads

It's a pivotal moment for modest fashion. Spending by Muslim consumers on fashion is projected to hit $428 billion by 2027, marking significant annual growth. Yet despite booming demand, modest fashion remains commercially fragmented and struggles for global recognition.Emirati fashion designer Rabia Zargarpur founded her namesake brand after confronting the severe lack of modest clothing options in post-9/11 America."In 2000, you couldn't even find modest basics," Zargarpur says. "That was a huge aha moment for me. We are so neglected. Why isn't there a single label catering to the needs of our women? And so I took charge and created my brand."Kerim Türe, founder of the Istanbul-based modest fashion e-tailer Modanisa, initially tried to convince existing brands to move online. When they declined, he took matters into his own hands, building a global e-commerce powerhouse from scratch."The clothes we put on ourselves, a piece of fabric, it's part of our identity, part of our self-confidence," Türe says. "We believe all women deserve to look their best without compromising their beliefs."For Linda Anggrea, CEO of the Modinity Group, the absence of modest fashion brands in major Indonesian shopping malls was glaring. She seized the opportunity, growing her brand from a single scarf line to a multi-brand group with over 100 retail locations."We want to feel good about ourselves, we want to feel comfortable," Anggrea says. "If we put that concept into whatever we are doing, it will easily translate into a good collection but still fit modest values."This week on The BoF Podcast, in a compelling conversation with Forbes Middle East presenter Sally Mousa, at BoF CROSSROADS 2025, Rabia Zargarpur, Kerim Ture, and Linda Anggrea explore the growing influence of modest fashion, discuss its evolving presence in mainstream markets, and outline the steps necessary for sustainable growth, authentic collaborations, and global recognition.Key Insights: Authenticity is vital as mo...

2025-05-09•25mins
#10

Celebrating Black Style Inside the 2025 Met Gala

The Costume Institute's 2025 exhibition, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," celebrated its opening at the annual Met Gala, marking the first menswear-focused exhibit in two decades and the first ever centred exclusively on Black fashion. Inspired by Monica L. Miller's seminal work on Black dandyism, the exhibition took a scholarly approach to exploring the historical and cultural significance of Black tailoring. The gala’s official dress code, "Tailored for You," provided a broader and more personal prompt, encouraging guests to interpret tailoring through their own unique perspectives. DTC correspondent Malique Morris and joins senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and executive editor Brian Baskin to reflect on the night’s boldest looks, the broader discussion on representation and inclusion at the event, and how the prestigious gala could evolve to better support diverse talent.Key Insights: The Costume Institute's 2025 exhibition emphasised fashion as a powerful tool used by Black communities to assert dignity and counteract societal prejudice. Organised into 12 sections, each exploring a different aspect of Black dandyism, it thoughtfully included historically significant garments, like abolitionist Frederick Douglass's tailcoat, underscoring the profound role that meticulously tailored attire has played in activism and representation. "It showed how our activism, while not reduced to an aesthetic, is indeed linked to how we wear beautifully cut clothing,” explains Morris.Natural hair was heavily featured in this year’s gala looks. "Black people's natural hair has always been up for debate, especially when it's of tightly coiled texture. Doechii said so much by wearing that beautiful crown on fashion's biggest night,” says Morris. “Redefining, but also defining what is so natural to us is absolutely stunning and worthy of praise at the utmost event like the Met Gala.”The presence of influencers at culturally prestigious events like the Met Gala remains c...

2025-05-07•33mins
#11

Why Craft is the Soul of True Luxury

It’s been a complicated year for luxury. The sector was already grappling with slowing growth but now American tariffs have disrupted global supply chains, driven prices upwards and dented consumer confidence. But there's another, deeper long-term challenge that the industry needs to contend with: the perceived trivialisation of high-end fashion. But brands that place craftsmanship at their core are able to overcome this and connect with customers in a deeper way. Mexican designer Carla Fernández has long been at the forefront of ethical, craft-based fashion. Her brand collaborates closely with Indigenous artisans across Mexico, promoting traditional craftsmanship and advocating for policies like collective intellectual property rights. “The future is handmade because the objects that are handmade get inspiration from your community, from your environment,” says Fernández. “It goes through your eyes, then it goes to your heart and comes out from your hands. And those are objects that have a soul."After experiencing first-hand how the fashion industry overlooks contributions from the Global South, Tunisian entrepreneur Kenza Fourati co-founded OSAY The Label, a brand focused on elevating artisan footwear crafted in Tunisia and using sustainable materials and traditional techniques.“I'm very angry with this kind of perspective that it's designed somewhere in the Global North, like Paris or Milan, and then it's handmade in the Global South, like Morocco, Tunisia. It feels very fragmented,” she says. This week on The BoF Podcast, a riveting conversation from BoF CROSSROADS 2025, Carla Fernández and Kenza Fourati discuss the power of craft-based fashion, how to collaborate ethically with artisans and indigenous communities while redefining what true luxury means.Key Insights: Fashion is an essential vehicle for storytelling. “Textile and text are very connected. If you walk in someone else's shoes, you connect with that person, and you see the unseen and the irrelevan...

2025-05-02•21mins
#12

Are Viral Microtrends Losing Their Cool?

Viral microtrends, the fleeting aesthetics popularised on platforms like TikTok, have defined recent fashion moments for young consumers. From the playful "Cottagecore" to the fleeting "Mob Wife", these trends have rapidly cycled through social media feeds and retail shelves. Post-pandemic experimentation drove this cycle, however, the once-accelerating churn of microtrends is beginning to slow, as Gen-Z shoppers seek authenticity, durability and individuality in their fashion choices. On this episode of The Debrief, senior editorial associate Joan Kennedy joins senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to talk about what's behind the slowdown in microtrends and what this shift means for retailers and brands.Key Insights: Microtrends gained momentum post-pandemic when young consumers had extra savings, more leisure time, and a desire to explore various identities through fashion. However, the novelty and playful experimentation eventually led to consumer fatigue. Kennedy explains, "Young shoppers are really looking to grasp onto something solid right now," noting an increased awareness that many trends felt "goofy" or even "fake." She adds, “people are talking more than ever about just this viral churn and how wasteful it is."Young consumers increasingly align their fashion choices with specific cultural events, creating marketing opportunities for retailers. "This whole sense of 'what I am doing is how I'm dressing' has become very popular among young shoppers," Kennedy explains, highlighting opportunities around events like the Barbie movie and Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter tour. Retailers can better predict long-lasting trends by monitoring multi-season appeal and connections beyond social media. Kennedy cites Revolve's chief merchandising officer, Divya Mathur, who recommends looking for trends that "span multiple seasons" and have relevance across social media, runway, and pop culture. Kennedy advises retailers to "lean into more evergreen, identity-based marketing...

2025-04-29•24mins
#13

Anas Bukhash on Harnessing the Dubai’s Potential as a Global Crossroads

Over the last few decades, Dubai has rapidly transformed from a humble trading port into a global hub for business, tourism, and innovation. With favourable economic policies, strategic location, and an ambitious young workforce, Dubai has become a vibrant destination at the intersection of Europe, Asia, and Africa.Entrepreneur Anas Bukhash has experienced and capitalised on this transformation firsthand. As the host of one of the Middle East’s most-watched talk shows and founder of influencer marketing agency Bukhash Brothers, Anas embodies the entrepreneurial spirit of Dubai."It's a 50-something-year-old country. It's younger than our fathers and our mothers,” says Bukhash. “So imagine if you come up with an idea and you just moved to Dubai – you could be the first one and then you have that edge of being the pioneer in that field.”This week on The BoF Podcast, Bukhash joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed at BoF CROSSROADS in Dubai to discuss how the city’s openness and youthfulness have shaped a thriving, innovation-driven culture.Key Insights: Dubai’s youthfulness provides a significant advantage for entrepreneurs. "It's a 50-something-year-old country," says Bukhash. "It's younger than our fathers and our mothers. So imagine if you come up with an idea and you just moved to Dubai – you could be the first one."Dubai offers entrepreneurs the unique possibility of becoming a pioneer. "If you're fast and you actually have a dream, I think Dubai is one of the few places in the world where you could be the first," says Bukhash. “You have that edge of being the pioneer in that field. If you do that in London or you do it in New York, you're probably number 500.”The rise of Dubai as a content capital is both a blessing and a curse. “Everybody has a smartphone, everybody can claim they are a life coach, or a media personality,” says Bukhash. “But the beauty is the direct journalism and reviews from creators with integrity. You see the situation in a certain country, ...

2025-04-25•25mins
#14

The Power of a Luxury Handbag

From the legendary Hermès Birkin to recent sensations like Alaïa’s Teckel, luxury handbags have long held a distinctive power within the fashion world. Blending brand heritage, practicality, and emotional resonance, handbags often become a signature item for brands to capture consumer attention and drive commercial success. But the ongoing challenge for luxury brands is maintaining innovation, managing consumer desire, and navigating a landscape rife with copycats and shifting trends.On this episode of The Debrief, senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speaks with luxury correspondent Simone Stern Carbone about the power of an iconic handbag and the delicate balance brands must achieve to keep them relevant.Key Insights: Bags often become the most recognisable symbols of luxury brands, significantly contributing to their financial performance. For instance, Alaïa’s Teckel bag – a playful, wiener dog-shaped design – helped offset the weaker performance of parent company Richemont’s other fashion labels. “That one bag was able to do so much, not just for the brand but for the larger company that the brand sits under,” says Stern Carbone. “That just says so much about the impact that a single wiener dog-shaped bag can potentially have.”Handbags are particularly attractive as entry-level luxury items because they are recognisable status symbols. “Consumers might not recognise jeans from Bottega, but they will recognise whether a bag is Louis Vuitton,” explains Stern Carbone. “Bags are something that people will purchase time and time again; they will use them daily. And if done right, it really becomes the totemic product for a brand.”Successful handbag designs can become immediate targets for imitation due to limited legal protections and the ease of replicating shapes and materials. “Once the bag gets copied, it's already over,” notes Stern Carbone, underscoring the need for continuous innovation or artificial scarcity, as mastered by Hermès with its Birkin and ...

2025-04-22•30mins
#15

Tory Burch and Pierre-Yves Roussel on Building a Global Brand with Local Relevance

Right from the outset, Tory Burch had a vision: to create a business where profit and purpose could go hand in hand. She was quick to take her brand global, first to Tokyo in 2009, and then on to Rome, Paris, Shanghai and beyond. Today, Tory Burch operates more than 350 stores around the world and across the Global South, including the Middle East, Latin America and South East Asia.Her partner in life and business, Pierre-Yves Roussel, joined the company as CEO in 2019 after working with some of the industry’s top creatives as Chairman and CEO of the fashion group at LVMH. Together, they’ve taken a measured, intentional approach to growth, balancing global ambition with a focus on finding local relevance.“It seems so superficial to hear, ‘let's just transplant a Westerner into a [different] market. That's just the opposite of how we look at things,” says Burch. "Authenticity is what people are going to be looking for more and more," adds Roussel. "You don't try to please every customer in the world. You attract the people that relate to who you are and what you stand for and what you propose." This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed in conversation with Tory and Pierre-Yves from BoF CROSSROADS in Dubai, exploring what it means to build an authentic, global brand in today’s competitive fashion marketplace.Key Insights: Burch believes purpose should drive business strategy. “From day one, my business plan was how do we have a successful business with incredible products that actually have deeper meaning and support a foundation for women entrepreneurs,” she says.Roussel emphasises authenticity as the key differentiator in today’s saturated fashion landscape. "People probably feel that there's too much formula around. Everyone is doing pretty much the same thing. People are really looking for authenticity."Operating globally requires deep local insights. For Burch and Roussel, global expansion isn’t about transplanting a fixed brand formula. Ins...

2025-04-18•35mins
#16

Can Tariffs Really Revive 'Made in USA' Fashion?

In early April, President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs, imposing duties as high as 145 percent on imports from China. Among the rationales offered were the prospect of a US manufacturing renaissance.The American fashion sector – heavily reliant on overseas production, particularly in China – now faces significant disruption. Some brands are adapting quickly, leveraging their domestic operations and leaning into a ‘Made in USA’ identity. Others are reevaluating their reliance on China as their primary sourcing destination. But the prospect of a mass return of garment manufacturing jobs remains a remote possibility, most economists and fashion industry experts say. In this episode of The Debrief, BoF correspondents Malique Morris and Marc Bain join executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to assess whether the dream of American-made fashion is any closer to reality.Key Insights: The ‘Made in USA’ dream remains out of reach due to the lack of US manufacturing infrastructure. "The infrastructure just literally isn't here," says Bain. "Even if you use US grown cotton, most of the time that cotton is shipped out of the US to be spun into yarn and woven into fabric somewhere else. These are all sorts of things that we just don't have here. It's been lost over decades and it would take decades to get it back.”Brands that already manufacture domestically are seeing success from marketing craftsmanship, experience and emotional value. The outdoor clothing company Filson, for example, offers walking tours around their manufacturing facility that shares a space with their Seattle headquarters. “Fashion is already an emotional purchase, and consumers do care about the story behind a brand. That's why brand marketing is so important for building the label,” says Morris. “This is another way to tap into that. It's storytelling, not nationalism.” Whereas the US has a lack of infrastructure for manufacturing, China is i...

2025-04-15•30mins
#17

Sabyasachi on Building a Global Brand from the Global South

Born in the suburbs of Kolkata, India Sabyasachi Mukherjee grew up immersed in the rich cultural environment in the state of West Bengal. After attending fashion school, he focused on creating his own brand with a small team and a big vision: to create Indian fashion that honours tradition while setting a new global standard. His first foray into the global market at New York Fashion Week in 2006 was dismissed by some critics as being “too ethnic”, but he remained undeterred, returning to India to build a business with power, presence, and purpose. Now he’s back in New York, creating a sensation with his first store outside India. The reception has been much warmer even if the core philosophy remains the same. “The clothing hasn’t changed at all. What’s changed is people’s perception – and I think nothing succeeds like success,” he says. “The only way you can succeed is to just stay strong. Because if you do not have a unique identity, you'll never be globally recognised.”This week on The BoF Podcast, a conversation with Sabyasachi from BoF CROSSROADS which took place in Dubai, bringing together top business and creative leaders to examine opportunities for fashion, beauty and luxury brands in the Global South.Key Insights: Mukherjee’s early setbacks in New York taught him that success doesn’t come from fitting in, but rather from standing firm. "Keep holding onto your belief system because if you do not have a unique identity, you'll never be globally recognised.” His designs haven't changed over the years but perceptions have. “Once you start having authority to tell people that this is the way you want things to happen, people stand up and listen to you."Global brands often fail in India because they misunderstand its luxury consumer. "What they need to do is they need to have a stronger cultural connection with the country for people to understand why they should pay these kinds of prices," he says. "There's a misnomer about India that Indians buy cheap, but ...

2025-04-11•23mins
#18

Trump’s Tariffs Change Everything

President Donald Trump announced an unprecedented wave of tariffs on April 2, imposing duties as high as 54 percent on fashion imports from key manufacturing countries, including China and Vietnam, and 20 percent on goods from the EU. These measures immediately sparked panic across global markets, ratcheting up the odds of a US recession and causing sharp stock price declines for major fashion brands such as Nike, Victoria's Secret and VF Corp. Sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent and luxury correspondent Simone Stern Carbone join executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to break down the tariffs’ effects on manufacturing, luxury brands, consumer behaviour and potential future shifts within the industry.Key Insights: The belief that these tariffs could quickly restore US-based fashion manufacturing is unrealistic. "It would take years of investment to build up the infrastructure and skill base within the US to replace manufacturing capacity that has been moving abroad for decades. For the apparel industry, it just does not exist on the scale that would be needed," explains Kent.Luxury brands, traditionally insulated by European-based production, will also face pressure. "Even for luxury brands that pride themselves for their production in countries like mostly France and Italy, they are going to be hit with some tariffs too," Stern Carbone points out.The tariffs introduce a complex challenge for luxury brands, requiring careful balancing of price adjustments, consumer sentiment and creativity amid ongoing economic uncertainty. "It's this mix between pricing, demand, maybe a lack of creativity, and also incentivising customers to actually purchase luxury goods," says Stern Carbone. "You don't know what [Trump] is going to do next, you don't know if this is going to stick, so are you going to spend $10,000 on a handbag - even if you can technically afford it - when you don't know what tomorrow brings?" emphasises Kent.The indust...

2025-04-08•25mins
#19

Satoshi Kuwata Is on a Lifelong Search for Balance

After years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu, a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. Grounded in precision tailoring and shaped by the poetic restraint of the kimono, Kuwata’s work reflects a lifelong pursuit of balance – between cultures, between past and future, and between creativity and business. “Once you meet the Western garment, it's free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes.Key Insights: Kuwata's design identity is rooted in a lifelong tension between his Japanese heritage and Western training. Having studied Savile Row tailoring and graduated from Central Saint Martins, he continues to explore how 2D kimono principles and 3D Western garment construction can coexist in one garment and one brand. “Setchu is the journey of finding the right balance,” he says.Kuwata’s years at Savile Row shaped his technical fluency and deep respect for tradition. “I really loved British designers because of tailoring … because that’s the most complicated garment,” he says. Working at prestigious houses like Huntsman, he absorbed a culture of precision, etiquette and generational craftsmanship. “I was probably the last generation to feel or to experience that kind of old culture,” he reflects. That foundation now anchors his design approach, even as he pushes toward innovation.Kuwata wants Setchu to be a new kind of fashion company...

2025-04-04•1hr 2mins
#20

H&M's AI Models and the Future of Fashion Marketing

Fast-fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to deploy AI-generated "digital twins" of real-life models in marketing campaigns. While H&M argues it's proactively managing inevitable industry changes, including by working with models to compensate them for use of their AI versions, the decision has sparked significant backlash. Comments on social media and statements by industry figures highlight deep-seated anxieties around job security, creative integrity and the value of the human element in fashion. BoF correspondents Marc Bain and Haley Crawford discuss the potential outcomes and tensions arising from AI’s expanding role in fashion marketing.Key Insights: H&M is just the tip of the iceberg: Fashion brands are increasingly embracing AI, from fast fashion to luxury. While AI-generated imagery has quietly infiltrated lower-end markets for some time, H&M's public embrace signifies its move out into the open, and into the world of high-profile campaigns. High-end brands like Coach and Estée Lauder have started using AI for product-focused imagery, indicating a cautious yet clear shift. "Coach uses Adobe Firefly to create digital twins of its products… to scale marketing content and test designs," says Crawford, highlighting how AI is already reshaping marketing across the fashion spectrum.Transparency around AI use in marketing is still inconsistent, and regulations are lagging behind. "The technology is moving so rapidly, it's making its way out into the world already, and the law is trying to catch up," Bain explains. While the EU is moving toward legislating transparency in AI-generated imagery, the lack of clear rules globally adds complexity for brands and consumers alike, creating uncertainty around ethical marketing standards.The rise of AI-generated imagery raises concerns over the loss of the creative collaboration intrinsic to traditional fashion shoots. "What's really at risk of being lost here is that communal process of creating fashion imagery...

2025-04-01•19mins
#21

Coldplay’s Guy Berryman Says He Makes Clothes the Way He Makes Music

Guy Berryman grew up with an engineer's mind and a passion for making things. After studying mechanical engineering and architecture, he found global fame as the bassist of Coldplay. But his love for making things never went away. In 2020, he launched Applied Art Forms, a clothing label that draws inspiration from utilitarian design, military garments and mid-century modern aesthetics.Now stocked in over 50 stores worldwide, including Dover Street Market, the brand is growing slowly but deliberately, with a creative process that he likens to making music. “The way I make things is very much like [how] we make songs, which is you throw ideas down and then you listen to it, judge it and see what it is. It’s a very sculptural process, says Berryman. “I'm not just backing someone else's brand. This is absolutely hands on, this is my baby.”This week on the BoF Podcast, Berryman joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to discuss the steep learning curve of building a fashion business, why quality and longevity matter more than hype, and how his creativity flows across creative disciplines. Key Insights: Berryman describes himself as having "an engineer's brain," shaped by his background studying mechanical engineering and architecture. This maker's mentality underpins his meticulous, hands-on approach at Applied Art Forms – from crafting prototypes to obsessing over garment details. "I'm on the studio floor, my hands and knees cutting, sewing, gluing, stitching," he says. "This is absolutely hands on."Berryman designs garments with longevity in mind. "I always feel like clothes actually get better the more you wear them," he says. "I feel that way towards everything that we're doing and I like the idea that everything that people buy from us is going to be with them for a long period of time."Despite his passion for clothing, Berryman admits he entered the fashion industry naively. He quickly learned that building a brand from scratch requires humility and perseverance. "...

2025-03-28•40mins
#22

What Happened to Pat McGrath Labs?

Pat McGrath is widely regarded as one of the most influential makeup artists of all time. Known simply as “Mother” to some in the industry, she’s been behind some of the most memorable runway beauty moments for decades. In 2015, she launched her namesake brand, Pat McGrath Labs, which quickly became a beauty phenomenon – going viral with its glittering gold pigment and reaching a $1 billion valuation just two years later.But almost a decade on, the business tells a different story. With its valuation now a fraction of what it once was, high executive turnover, limited product accessibility, and internal challenges, the brand’s future hangs in the balance – even as McGrath's own star continues to rise with a new role as beauty director for Louis Vuitton.The Business of Beauty editor Brennan Kilbane and executive editor Priya Rao, explore what went wrong and how the business can get back on track.Key Insights: In its early years, Pat McGrath Labs thrived as a high-concept beauty brand that translated runway artistry into consumer excitement. The first product, Gold 001, was a multipurpose pressed gold pigment that sold out within minutes and crashed the website. As Kilbane describes, the brand began as “a direct pipeline from her creative brain to the cosmetics market.” The initial success solidified McGrath’s cult status – and set high expectations for what came next.When Pat McGrath's 'glass skin' look went viral after the Maison Margiela couture show, it could have been a pivotal brand moment. But the product inspired by the look – and released more than a year later – failed to maintain momentum. “They tried to capitalise on it by scheduling a masterclass a week later,” says Kilbane, “but it wasn’t fast enough.” Additionally, according to Rao, the bigger issue with late deployment was product wearability: “It’s not something that’s everyday or wearable in any capacity.”Pat McGrath’s artistry is legendary, however operationally, Pat McGrath Labs fell flat. “Pat ...

2025-03-25•32mins
#23

Thom Bettridge Says Viral Magazine Covers Are Only Sugar Highs

i-D magazine was founded in 1980 by Terry and Tricia Jones, pioneering a new kind of fashion storytelling that mixed street style with high fashion, always with an eye — and a wink — to the future. The magazine has had its ups and downs, and in 2023 fell victim to the bankruptcy of Vice, which had acquired i-D from its founders in 2012. Enter Karlie Kloss and her burgeoning media company, Bedford Media, which has plans to revitalise i-D under a new editor-in-chief, Thom Bettridge with experience at 032c, Interview, Highsnobiety, and Ssense. Now, Bettridge is on a mission to re-establish i-D as a cultural institution for a new generation — one that values community over clicks and retention over viral attention.“I've worked on viral covers and while they can do so much for your exposure as a small brand, at the end of the day, it's really like a sugar high. That famous person's fans are there to see the person they like. Not that many of them actually stick around,” says Bettridge. “We're moving from this attention era to a retention era, where the smarter brands are figuring out how to build a narrative people are invested in.”Bettridge joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to talk about his journey to i-D and what it takes to relaunch an iconic title for a new era.Key Insights: Moving from biannual publications like 032C to the fast-paced, blog-style environment of Highsnobiety, Bettridge learned to step back from editing every piece, focusing instead on nurturing a team that could maintain quality content at a rapid digital pace. "I had to cultivate a team that is going to do great work even when I'm not directly touching it," he says. "It was a big growth thing, learning how to be more of a coach than an editor of editors."At e-commerce platform Ssense, Bettridge discovered content was most successful when it offered intrinsic value, fostering long-term brand loyalty. He likens Ssense's editorial content to a great coffee shop attached to a hotel: Even if peopl...

2025-03-21•49mins

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#24

Is Forever 21 Shein's Biggest Victim Yet?

Once a dominant player in fast fashion, Forever 21 recently filed for bankruptcy for the second time in six years, marking the likely end of its run as a physical retailer. The chain, known for introducing ultra-affordable, trend-driven clothing to American malls, struggled to remain relevant as competitors like Zara, H&M, and later Shein and Temu offered faster, cheaper, and more digitally-savvy alternatives. After its initial bankruptcy in 2019, Forever 21 was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and mall operator Simon Property Group, but despite various turnaround attempts – including unusual collaborations and international relaunches – it failed to recapture its former success.Retail editor Cathaleen Chen joins The Debrief to unpack what Forever 21’s fall says about the future of fast fashion.Key Insights: Chen argues that Forever 21’s downfall is largely due to its loss of cultural cachet. “You don't see influencers peddling Forever 21 in the way that you see influencers still promoting Shein, and I think that's a huge factor. You have to spend that money to be relevant,” says Chen.Chen contends that fast fashion retailers like Forever 21 have always struggled with establishing a unique identity, which ultimately made it difficult for them to maintain customer loyalty. “The problem with Wet Seal, Rue 21, and now Forever 21 is that these retailers never really had any kind of identity,” she explains.The retailer’s failure to evolve beyond chasing transient trends has left it vulnerable to more agile competitors. “It's not about just chasing fashion, fashion, fashion the way that I think Forever 21 never got out of, the way that Shein dominates. It's about going the other direction and creating products that your customers want at a level of quality,” says Chen.Looking forward, success in fast fashion will require more than affordability. Chen believes future winners must combine low prices with a compelling retail experience: “There is an element of surprise ...

2025-03-18•24mins
#25

Breaking News: Demna Takes Gucci, Versace Enters a New Creative Chapter

Demna's move to Gucci, announced after weeks of feverish speculation, stunned industry observers and sent shockwaves through financial markets, with Kering shares dropping sharply by more than 12%. While some hail this as an opportunity for Demna to reinvent Gucci through his distinctive cultural lens, others question his ability to break free from his Balenciaga legacy.. BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed posits, “The really big question here is, can Demna do something different?”Meanwhile, Donatella Versace’s transition from Chief Creative Officer to Chief Brand Ambassador marks the end of a storied era and the beginning of a new chapter under Dario Vitale. Highlighting Donatella’s cultural impact, BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks notes, “Versace was one of the few names that registered with people who didn't know anything about fashion.” Fresh off a stellar tenure at Miu Miu, where he helped to ignite record growth, Vitale faces the ambitious task of balancing Versace's iconic legacy with a renewed contemporary relevance. With whispers of potential acquisition by Prada Group swirling, Versace stands at the precipice of transformation.Additional Resources:Why Gucci Picked Demna | BoF Dario Vitale to Succeed Donatella Versace as Chief Creative Officer of Versace | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

2025-03-14•27mins
#26

Tim Blanks and Imran Amed Reflect on Autumn/Winter 2025

This season, all eyes were on the debuts of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy. Meanwhile, designs at Alaïa and Valentino continued to push boundaries with daring silhouettes that either stood away from the body or felt purposely incomplete. Behind the new faces and unconventional shapes was a deeper exploration of eroticism. From Ackermann’s sensual glamour at Tom Ford to what Tim Blanks calls the “quiet eroticism” of Burton’s Givenchy, designers seemed united by a playful fascination with the body — and a desire to subtly challenge its boundaries.“Fashion is a very fetishistic art form,” says Tim Blanks, BoF’s editor-at-large. “It has its fixations on the body and the way it fetishizes objects, but fashion is about fetishizing beauty and ugliness. A lot of these different things have been coming up over the last few years.”Following the conclusion of the Autumn/Winter 2025 shows, Blanks sits down with BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss the highlights of fashion month.Key Insights: Across the season, there was plenty of body on display. At Alaïa, Pieter Mulier presented striking new silhouettes that played with unusual proportions, creating shapes that stood away from the body. These exaggerated forms, described vividly by Amed as "body condoms," challenged the relationship between clothes and the body. At Duran Lantink, prosthetic pieces humorously toyed with ideas of eroticism. “What are they trying to say with these clothes?” asks Blanks. “There is a new body consciousness and people want to show off their svelte new forms.”Ackermann’s debut successfully merged Tom Ford’s famed sexual glamour with a reflective, intimate approach. “Tom is a sexualist and Haider is a sensualist, but there was a compatibility there in the erotic rigour in both of their work,” says Blanks. “I thought Haider did a wonderful job of doing a Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford collection; honouring the essence of one, but really bringing the dynami...

2025-03-14•57mins
#27

Can You Sell Sexual Wellness Without Sex?

Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speak with editorial associate Yola Mzizi about how regulatory restrictions and cultural conservatism are forcing sexual wellness brands to pivot their messaging in 2025. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

2025-03-11•28mins
#28

Francesco Risso Says Fashion Should Slow Down to Find Its Magic Again

Born in Sardinia on a sailing boat to self-described “adventurous” parents, Francesco Risso grew up in an environment that fostered independence, spontaneity and a deep need to create. After formative years at Polimoda, FIT and Central Saint Martins — where he studied under the late Louise Wilson — he joined Prada, learning firsthand how to fuse conceptual exploration with a product that resonates in everyday life.Now at Marni, Risso continues to embrace a method he likens to an artist’s studio, championing bold experimentation and surrounding himself with collaborators who push each other to new heights of creativity. “Creativity is … in the way we give love to the things that we make and then we give to people. I feel I don’t see so much of that love around,” says Risso. “We have to inject into products a strong and beautiful sense of making. That requires craft, it requires skills, it requires a lot of fatigue, it requires discipline.”Risso joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his unconventional childhood shaped his creative approach, why discipline and craft remain vital to fashion, and how meaningful collaboration can expand the boundaries of what’s possible.Key Insights: Growing up in a busy, non-traditional household, Risso learned to express himself by altering and reconstructing clothing he found in family closets. “I started to develop this need to make with my hands as a means to communicate,” he says. “I would find something in my grandmother’s closet, start to disrupt it and collage it to something from my sister’s wardrobe and we have a new piece.” This early experimentation laid the groundwork for his vision of and approach to design.From Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins to Miuccia Prada, Risso has absorbed the value of rigorous research, conceptual thinking and extended ideation. “You have to rely on your own strengths and your own capability to go and study, to go and research, to go and find your things,” he says. “That is k...

2025-03-07•1hr 3mins
#29

Can Farfetch Be Fixed?

Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near-bankruptcy. Since then, Coupang has implemented sweeping cost-cutting measures that have narrowed losses significantly, but are eroding Farfetch’s footing in the luxury e-commerce space and alienating its core customers. DTC correspondent Malique Morris joins Executive Editor Brian Baskin and Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to examine Farfetch’s path to profitability.Key Insights: Coupang's relentless drive to push Farfetch toward profitability clashes with the premium expectations of luxury shoppers as cost-cutting is prioritised over customer experience. “Coupang is so hyper‐focused on getting Farfetch to profitability ... and when you're dealing with people who are spending $100,000 a year on the marketplace, it doesn't quite work that way,” explains Morris. “They’ve also cut teams dedicated to working with Farfetch’s VIP customers, who can make up as much as 30% of the company’s annual sales.” This tension between operational efficiency and delivering a high-end experience is at the heart of Farfetch's challenges.Farfetch’s “sold by Farfetch” programme highlights its growing disconnect with luxury brands. As luxury powerhouses like Celine, Alaia and Kering – which includes Gucci, Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta — pull their collections from the platform, Farfetch has turned to a grey market tactic to maintain its inventory. “Instead of sending the goods straight from the retailers to the customers, the items are now going to a warehouse in Amsterdam to be repackaged,” says Morris. “It's not only a knock to Farfetch's relationship with top brands, but it also risks deteriorating customer service.” This move, intended to sidestep brand resistance risks undermining transparency and trust among high-end partners.Farfetch's biggest super...

2025-03-04•30mins
#30

James Whitner on Culture, Community and Building Brands with Purpose

James Whitner — founder of The Whitaker Group and the visionary behind retailers such as A Ma Maniére and Social Status — reveals how culture, purpose, and empathy drive his approach to business. Whitner witnessed firsthand how marginalised communities often face limited options, shaping his commitment to serving communities typically overlooked by the fashion industry. “I think what helped me understand life is difficult, it's just seeing a difficult life, right? Watching people struggle and seeing that there is privilege in pain,” says Whitner, about growing up in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. “When I look at what we’re creating now, it has purpose and is about standing up Black culture at the centre,” Whitner adds. “Everything is about real experiences and connections to people.”This week on the BoF Podcast, founder and CEO Imran Amed sits down with Whitner to explore his journey, learn about the driving force behind The Whitaker Group’s community-centric retail experiences, and understand why authenticity and cultural connection are non-negotiables in today’s fashion landscape.Key Insights: Intentionality and human connection are integral to James Whitner’s approach to retail spaces. Rather than focusing solely on product or profit, he strives to shape how people feel and engage with his brands. “We want to be really intentional about how we make humans feel, our connection to humanity, and how we can build a community,” he explains, emphasising that empathy and shared purpose can help to forge vibrant, long-lasting communities.Whitner also contends that building authentic connections starts with recognising the integral role of culture and purpose. “We sit in brand experiences and purpose because you can't leave culture out. I think everything we do is centred in culture,” he says. A key to Whitner’s success is resisting the temptation to be “for everybody.” Instead, he focuses on aligning with partners who share his vision for serving specific audiences with in...

2025-02-28•42mins
#31

Why Can’t Fashion Fix Its Labour Exploitation Problem?

The revelation this year of child labour in India’s cotton fields and modern-day slavery in Taiwanese garment factories is the latest scandal concerning worker treatment in fashion’s supply chain. New abuses keep emerging despite efforts by brands, manufacturers, activists, and governments to set clear labour guidelines. Watchdog groups try new tactics to combat the problem, but they face systemic forces far beyond fashion.Sustainability editor Sarah Kent joins executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to discuss the problematic labour dynamics underpinning the fashion system.Key Insights: Persistent abuse in fashion’s supply chains is not merely about isolated incidents but reflects deep-rooted socio-economic challenges. In India’s cotton industry, for example, many farmworkers come from extremely marginalised and impoverished communities where exploitation is a norm rather than an exception. Families often work together under hazardous conditions, with little oversight or recourse. “So you're not just dealing with an issue of exploitation that is coming from the [fashion] industry, you're dealing with a culture that is ingrained in the way that community works – and that is a very difficult, complicated thing to try and manage, ” explains Kent. Transparency in supply chains remains critical. Despite decades of advocacy, many brands struggle to verify the origins of their cotton. The global cotton supply chain’s complexity—where materials pass through multiple suppliers and traders—makes tracing raw cotton back to its source extremely difficult. “The traders will have been getting the cotton from ginners who will have got raw cotton from … maybe hundreds of thousands of small family farms aggregated it, ginned it, sold it onto a trader who then sells it up through the supply chain. So by the time it even gets to a spinning factory, tracing it back to the farm where it came from is really, really difficult,” says Kent.In Taiwan’s ...

2025-02-25•29mins
#32

Giles Duley Shares a New Lens on Purpose

Giles Duley began his photography career at an enviable pinnacle, shooting for GQ and Vogue and even touring with Oasis. Despite this early success, he found himself unfulfilled by the culture and sought a greater sense of purpose. Over time, his lens shifted from backstage glamour to the frontlines of conflict, where he began documenting the impact of war on ordinary lives. A life-altering moment came in Afghanistan when an IED explosion claimed three of his limbs, yet Duley returned to conflict zones with a renewed commitment to capturing stories of love and resilience.“There is a connection from where I started to where I am now which is stories and empathy,” he says. “There’s the story, there’s the storyteller, and then there’s the amplifier. And what brands and individuals can do is be those amplifiers to make sure those stories are heard around the world. … I've realised the way I live my best life is to make sure others are living their best life – and that is my purpose.” Through his Legacy of War Foundation, Giles demonstrates how creativity and empathy can break down barriers, urging each of us to use our own platforms and talents to enact meaningful change.Key Insights: Duley documents conflict zones, but he views his work through a radically different lens: “I’m not a war photographer. I photograph love,” he says, highlighting ordinary moments that reveal our shared humanity: “a grandmother brushing her granddaughter’s hair, a mother feeding her baby, a father on the floor doing lessons with his kids.” Though Duley lost three limbs after stepping on an IED in Afghanistan, he refused to let that trauma define his future. “The next day I woke up and I said, ‘I will never think about the things I can’t do, but I will focus on what I can and I will be the very best at that,’” he recalls, referring to the mantra that has guided him ever since. Duley went on to found an organisation that offers direct support to conflict-affected communities — underscoring ...

2025-02-21•17mins
#33

Can Kering Fix Gucci?

Gucci has long been the shining star of Kering’s luxury portfolio, but the brand's recent struggles have exposed weaknesses in the conglomerate’s position. Gucci’s sales plummeted 24 percent in the fourth quarter of 2024, dragging Kering’s overall performance down by 12 percent. The shock departure of Creative Director Sabato De Sarno after less than two years only deepens the group’s instability.Luxury editor Robert Williams joins executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Gucci’s downturn is affecting Kering’s broader portfolio, why its attempt at a creative reset didn’t resonate, and what’s next for the group as it searches for a new vision.Key Insights: Gucci's downturn has been severe, with sales falling by almost a quarter in 2024. This dramatic slide highlights the challenge of reinvigorating the brand. “[Gucci] has had a few really big booms, but then also some pretty big busts afterward. That creates additional complications for the group and how much they're able to invest in acquiring new brands, in developing the brands they have. And honestly, to also just continue to exist,” says Williams.Gucci’s identity has become muddled as it leans too heavily on its heritage, potentially limiting its appeal. “Gucci can stand for a lot of things and I think that's where they got a bit confused. It's the biggest Italian luxury brand and maybe they started to think that it was more of a heritage house than it should be,” Williams explains. Williams outlines a protective strategy where the group is preemptively selling off valuable real estate. He cites the sale of luxury jewellery house Boucheron headquarters and flagship store on Place Vendôme, stating, "choosing to cash in on the fact that this building is worth a lot of money is a bit worrying that they feel the need to get that treasury right now." Gucci’s potential for a rapid rebound hinges on securing the right creative leadership to tell a compelling story of ...

2025-02-18•33mins
#34

Es Devlin and Ekow Eshun on Belonging, Otherness and Identity

In an intimate conversation at BoF VOICES 2024, artist and stage designer Es Devlin and writer and cultural curator Ekow Eshun discuss the transformative potential of human connection. Emerging from a desire to confront her own biases, Devlin’s “Congregation” project invited 50 Londoners from immigrant backgrounds to be drawn and displayed inside St. Mary le Strand church in London. Eshun’s new book, “The Strangers”, likewise interrogates racial identity and belonging through the stories of five Black men spanning centuries and continents.“I'm not the same person at all,” says Devlin, reflecting on her experience. “I'm a bit more raw as a consequence of writing [The Strangers] because … you have to open yourself up to pain and fraughtness,” adds Eshun. Devlin and Eshun investigate how “otherness” shapes our sense of belonging and argue that true understanding requires a radical willingness to open ourselves to one another — and, in the process, rediscover parts of ourselves.Key Insights: For Devlin, bridging cultural divides begins with a fearless self-examination: “I wanted to encounter my own racism, my own bias, my own separation.” Considering how certain immigrants are welcomed while others are rejected, she admits, “If it's at work in my community, it must be at work in me. It must be work in my very person. Whether I think it is or not, I must encounter it.”Creative inquiry can be a path to self-discovery. “Almost any creative exercise in the end becomes about one trying to meet what’s inside you," Eshun explains. "It's easy enough to say, 'We're all one interconnected species.' But to do that, you have to put in some work along the way. That work is self-revelatory, but it's also a work of active imagination and broad empathy."For Eshun, genuine unity demands more than rhetoric—it requires a purposeful willingness to understand and embrace our differences. “It's easy enough to say, we're all one people, … but to do that, you have to do some work along the ...

2025-02-14•23mins
#35

Can Estée Lauder Win Over the Modern Beauty Consumer?

Estée Lauder was long celebrated as a pioneer in prestige beauty, building a global empire on the strength of family legacy, innovative product lines, smart acquisitions and a high-touch in-store experience. However in recent years, the company has lost its wat on each of those strategies, leaving it poorly equipped to stay on top of rapidly shifting consumer tastes. In its latest earnings call, new CEO Stéphane de La Faverie candidly acknowledged that the company had “lost its agility,” and promised to quickly implement an ambitious modernisation plan. The Debrief explores how Estée Lauder’s legacy is now proving to be a burden, and how it can still overcome its challenges. Key Insights: Holding around 86% of the voting rights, Estée Lauder’s tight family control helped maintain a tight focus on prestige beauty, but has contributed to a risk-averse culture that caused the company to miss out on important trends. “A lot of their beliefs are around beauty being a prestige category and a prestige experience and that being the way to win,” says Morosini. “That message in the wider beauty consumer base has been diluted a little bit. People are much more open to shopping for products in different ways and from different kinds of founders. They didn't really let go of their values.” Estée Lauder also made a big bet on China, at one point deriving 25 percent of its sales from the market. However, when demand cooled post-COVID, it exposed weaknesses in its home market strategy. "Not only did the China business really, really sharply decline, but when the Chinese market took a really big hit, it exposed just how much they had neglected their home market of the US and just how much market share they had ceded without anyone really realising,” says Morosini.The company’s new CEO, Stéphane de La Faverie, is spearheading a major strategic overhaul with his "Beauty Reimagined" plan. This vision aims to reinvigorate the brand by streamlining the corporate structure, tripling th...

2025-02-11•29mins
#36

Why India Will Not Be The Next China for Luxury

“Will India be the next China?” is a question that’s circulated throughout the fashion industry for years. Even as its population and economy both surge, India’s cultural tapestry and fragmented retail landscape set it apart from its northern neighbour.At BoF VOICES 2024, Ravi Thakran drew on his experiences pioneering luxury growth for Swatch in 1990s China and leadership of LVMH in Asia to share his unique insights on the many differences between the world’s two most populous countries, and why European luxury brands have not yet managed to really crack the Indian market.“India is now across China and growing faster. But when it comes to the luxury market — talk of any brand, be it Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Louis Vuitton, Cartier — India is less than 1%,” says Thakran. “India's stupendous growth is right in front of us, but the bulk of that growth is led by a very young population with a very low per capita income. So if you are an aspirational player, go to India today. This will be your biggest play going forward. In luxury, you still have to work.”Thakran unpacks the dynamics of economic growth in India, explains why its path won’t mirror China’s, and shares insights on how to succeed in one of the world’s most complex yet promising markets.Key Insights: From garments to accessories, Asia has scaled production to supply most of the global market. Simultaneously, it’s also the top consumer region for many categories, making Asia pivotal in both supply and demand equations. Despite this, its share of value in these categories remains low: “Asia is now the largest market of the world and across [garments, accessories and watches], more than 50%. … How come its share of value in these categories is so low?” queries Thakran. “Value resides in brands. And where do these brands live? The brands today for these categories are still in Europe and the USA.” While India’s market is huge, it is fragmented and complex. Challenges for fashion brands include high import duties, ...

2025-02-07•23mins
#37

Fashion’s M&A Market is Heating Up

After a prolonged slowdown, fashion’s M&A market is springing back to life. A combination of falling interest rates, shifting investor sentiment and optimism around economic policy has fuelled a wave of early 2025 deals. Within the first few weeks of the year, brands like True Religion and Kapital were acquired by private equity firms and holding companies, signalling renewed confidence in fashion investments.However, not all acquisitions are about aggressive growth. Some buyers specialise in “managed decline,” acquiring struggling brands to extend their lifespan through licensing or cost-cutting. Others, including private equity firms and strategic buyers, see opportunities to scale promising brands by injecting capital and expertise.“The key for a lot of these companies in finding buyers is proving that their brands are still worth it and can weather these economic cycles and lulls in the market,” shared e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris. Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sat down with Morris to break down the latest deals, the brands poised for sale, and what it all means for fashion in 2025 and beyond.Key Insights: A number of converging factors are driving a new wave of fashion mergers and acquisitions in 2025. Falling interest rates, Trump’s re-election driving investor optimism, and shifting regulations have all played a part in fuelling new acquisitions. “Retailers reported strong holiday sales in 2024, and even though much of that was driven by discounting, it signalled that consumers were still spending,” says Morris. “That kind of activity gives investors more confidence in backing fashion businesses.”Buyers are looking for brands with strong customer loyalty, an engaged audience, and clear growth potential that can weather the ebb and flow of the market. Brands need “good stewards to help them find the best resources to expand without hurting their legacy, whether that be money, retail networks, or suppli...

2025-02-04•30mins
#38

The Luxury Crisis, Explained

In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast.“This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last decade or so is running out of steam.”In their conversation, Amed and Safian discuss the cracks in the current luxury formula, the untapped potential in older demographics, and how brand and product innovation have the potential to revive the sector. Key Insights: Amed warns that the go-to strategies for luxury brands, such as over-expansion and relentless price hikes, are no longer sustainable. He highlights how the slowdown in Chinese consumer spending and a sharp drop in aspirational buyers who “gorged on luxury products during the pandemic” are exposing the cracks in this long-established playbook.While the industry has long speculated on whether India might be ‘the next China,’ Amed believes real growth is finally within reach. Thanks to a flourishing middle class, improved retail infrastructure and widespread mobile internet, international brands are eyeing India’s vast consumer base with renewed interest. However, success demands culturally informed approaches: “The smart brands are going to really find the right talent, Indian local talent, and empower those leaders,” says Amed. “The Indian market is on the precipice of something really big but it’s not going to be easy.”Amed acknowledges the widespread but often discreet adoption of artificial intelligence: “I think as with a lot of things AI, everybody’s using it, but not everyone’s talking about how they’re using it,” he said. However, he cautions that “to create something really, genuinely novel, interesting, disruptive, creative, and beautiful, a human has to be involved,” reminding brands that while AI can accelerate ideation, authentic creative vision remains t...

2025-01-31•37mins
#39

How to Future-Proof Your Fashion Career in 2025

The fashion workplace is evolving, shaped by a wave of technological advancements, leadership changes, and cultural dynamics. For many employees, adapting to these changes has become a challenge, while employers must navigate how to foster connection, retain talent, and drive innovation.Executive editor Brian Baskin sits with commercial features editorial director Sophie Soar and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to unpack how businesses can create thriving workplaces in 2025, the role of soft skills in a tech-driven era, and what it takes to re-engage an increasingly disconnected workforce.“In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element. What does a human do well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Meanwhile, Soar highlights the growing challenges of employee disengagement, stating, “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce. Trying to get employees to buy back into what they’re doing and be part of the workplace is going to be really challenging.”Key Insights:The turnover of leadership in fashion is reshaping workplace dynamics. “New leadership means change, even if they're using the same playbook,” explains Butler-Young. “Having someone new at the top of your company tends to affect morale for better or worse, or just makes people feel uncertain.” She adds, “Fashion workplaces are in this perpetual transition this year, which will inevitably shape culture.”In the wake of President Donald Trump’s executive orders targeting corporate DEI programmes, successful DEI strategies in 2025 will integrate horizontally across all business functions, rather than thinking about it as a vertical. “If something is horizontally integrated across the business and is a fundamental aspect of every single core pillar that this business touches upon, it's harder to roll back on those initiatives as a result,” says Soar. Butler-Young adds, “If you as a leader of any kind of organisation appear to flip...

2025-01-28•36mins
#40

Tim Gunn on the Power of Staying True to Your Vision

Tim Gunn is best known as the wise, empathetic mentor on television’s Project Runway, but before he found himself guiding the next generation of designers on screen, he spent time teaching and shaping the fashion curriculum at Parsons, where he helped nurture some of the most influential names in American fashion. His journey began in Washington, D.C., where early struggles with bullying and a desire to understand his own creativity led him toward mentoring and educating others.Now, as the industry grapples with change on multiple fronts, Gunn offers his unique perspective on what it really takes to succeed today — in life and in fashion. “Life is a huge collaboration. We need other people. We’re not intended to be solos. And no one should think, ‘I can deal with this and solve this myself,’” says Gunn.This week on The BoF Podcast, Gunn opens up about how his early trials shaped his remarkable career, why he left his art practice behind to focus on teaching and mentorship, and how he sees the future of American fashion. Key Insights: A graduate of the Corcoran College of Art and Design, Gunn once dreamed of being a painter or sculptor, but after just a few years in the classroom, he realised guiding students gave him more satisfaction than making his own work. “After two years of teaching, I thought, ‘I feel so fulfilled and so sated through the teaching process, I don’t need to make the work,’” Gunn says . “This is what I love doing and I’m just going to keep doing it.”During his tenure at Parsons, Gunn served as both a teacher and an administrator — eventually rising to Associate Dean — and was tasked with revitalising the school’s struggling fashion program. “The curriculum had not changed since 1952,” he recalls. “No computers, no fashion history... I was completely and totally horrified.” Determined to better prepare students for the realities of the industry, Gunn helped introduce new business training, creative independence, and a broader perspective on de...

2025-01-24•54mins
#41

The Evolving Art of Brand Collaborations

Brand collaborations were once rare, highly anticipated events that generated significant buzz. But as they have become more frequent, the challenge lies in creating partnerships that genuinely resonate with consumers and cut through the noise.This week, executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and editorial fellow Julia Lebossé to explore the state of brand collaborations, what makes them succeed or fail, and where they’re headed next.To work, collaborations need to feel authentic. For brands, “letting their collaborators take the wheel and just do what they want to do is really key,” says Takanashi. “When brands collaborate successfully, it’s often because they give creative freedom to the collaborator, allowing them to use the materials they want and tell a story that feels true to their audience,” adds Lebossé.Key Insights: Poorly thought-out collaborations often fail to connect with audiences and just won’t cut it anymore. “When it's done lazily, consumers can tell”, explains Lebossé. “We're becoming much smarter, really looking into brands and what they're doing and what makes sense. … That's why brands really have to step up in terms of what they're doing.”It’s not just big brands that can make waves with collaborations. Lebossé pointed to a sneaker collaboration between Bimma Williams and Saucony as an example where a smaller brand excelled. “They’re showing that, hey, we can do innovation,” explains Lebossé.Brands are finding even greater value in creating physical experiences around collaborations. Takanashi points to the Corteiz x Nike collaboration, where prospective buyers participated in scavenger hunts to buy the shoes. “If someone told me that kids would be lining up to buy Huaraches in 2025, I would not believe them at all,” he says. “But that’s the thing. This brand got kids waiting for hours in the freezing cold to buy their sneakers. It’s really that IRL experience...

2025-01-21•25mins
#42

Nara Smith and Lucky Blue Smith on Living Authentically in Viral Moments

In today’s fashion landscape, many of us find ourselves caught in an infinite scroll of influencers. But in 2024, one couple captured the internet’s attention like no other: Lucky Blue Smith and Nara Smith.From making cereal from scratch to becoming one of fashion’s most sought-after duos, their rise has sparked both praise and criticism. For millions of people following online, their content offers a glimpse of domestic bliss and authenticity; for others, it raises eyebrows, stoking wild conspiracy theories. As a result, the young couple has found themselves in the glare of the social media spotlight.And as the Smiths revealed at BoF VOICES 2024, they’ve come to learn that not everyone will understand who they really are. “It’s the internet. You can’t believe everything you hear and see,” Lucky says. “People really see through all the fakeness. And if you're really authentic, then that's really compelling to a lot of people,” adds Nara. Key Insights: Lucky Blue Smith rose to fame at an extraordinarily young age. At 16, he became the male model of the moment with covers of major magazines and appearances on runways around the world. Reflecting on the challenges of early fame, he shares, “When you go through a big viral moment and you’re all over social media, you can kind of become, in a way, self-conscious … But meeting [Nara], it was like I felt like I could be my true self for the first time in a while in front of someone.” For Lucky, learning to navigate online scrutiny has been crucial. “It’s the internet. You can’t believe everything you hear and see … You just have to try to focus on the positive and move forward.”Nara Smith underscores the importance of authenticity in connecting with her audience. “As long as you’re authentic to yourself and you’re living your best life and not being fake, that’s kind of how you can get to a point where you might be a really successful influencer,” she says. “People really see through all the fakeness.” As an influencer,...

2025-01-17•23mins
#43

How to Choose a PR Agency

Public relations in fashion has transformed drastically from securing magazine features to managing 360-degree brand storytelling. PR agencies now navigate everything from influencer partnerships to event management, social media strategies, and beyond. However, choosing the right PR agency is no small feat, especially for smaller brands or those at critical growth stages.“Having a PR agency that really feels like a genuine organic extension of your team … is what's going to enable you to plan together and collaboratively work on goals that you're super aligned on,” shared marketing correspondent Haley Crawford. Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with Crawford to discuss how brands can evaluate potential PR partners, the challenges and opportunities in the modern PR space, and how to ensure a successful collaboration.Key Insights: The PR industry has evolved significantly. In the past, PR agencies focused on securing mentions in traditional editorial formats, with the ultimate goal being a feature in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar. Today, their capabilities have expanded. As Crawford explains, “this allows them to represent brands across the full spectrum of physical and digital spaces where shoppers are really interfacing with them and discovering them. … The agency's role is to facilitate telling a cohesive story across all these facets.”Building relationships remains central to PR success. “The ability to build and maintain relationships has always been such a central skill in PR, but it looks totally different today than it did a couple of years ago,” says Crawford. “Today, publicists really have to go above and beyond to use those relationship building skills to build communities around the brand. And I think what really helps is being passionate about the brands that you choose to work with as well.”As artificial intelligence increasingly influences brand strategies, PR agencies must adopt innovative, human-centric...

2025-01-14•26mins
#44

Bethann Hardison: Model, Mother, Agent and Advocate

Bethann is a former model, agent, and advocate who has been agitating for a more inclusive fashion industry for more than half a century.Bethann launched her own modelling agency in 1984, pushing for representation and equal pay for Black and ethnic minority models. Meanwhile In her personal life, she was a working mom, and a woman that in her own words, “has no sense of retirement in her DNA.”"When I say racial diversity, I mean I want to still see a redhead. I don’t want an all-Black anything,” Hardison says. “I want to make sure our world remains completely integrated. That’s the most important thing.”This week on the BoF Podcast, we revisit conversation from BoF VOICES 2024 where Bethann spoke with London-based British-Jamaican designer Bianca Saunders about her inspiring career journey and the state of the fashion industry today. Key Insights: Hardison’s approach to diversity in the fashion industry was intentional from the start By strategically building an agency that mirrored the diversity of the world around her, Hardison disrupted the norms of a predominantly white industry. “I didn’t want to have a Black model agency,” she says. “I think it's very important when you have to compete, you have to compete against the people who are running it.” Her decision to compete directly with white agencies allowed her to challenge systemic biases from within, making representation a matter of strategy, not tokenism.For much of her career, Hardison worked tirelessly without stopping to reflect on her impact: “When people come up to me and say, ‘Thank you so much. I love you. You’re such an icon,’ … When you’re doing the work, you don’t think of it as significant. You just want to get things done.” This humility is paired with a newfound appreciation for her legacy, which she gained while working on the documentary Invisible Beauty. “When I decided to make the film about me and let the story be told, I finally realised the significance of what I’ve done.” Hardison’s ...

2025-01-10•24mins
#45

Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem

Over the past year, the pristine image luxury brands have built on their links to artisanal craft, ethical manufacturing and quality has begun to crumble, buffeted by a scandal that has linked labels including Dior and Armani to sweatshops in Italy. According to investigators in Milan, factories producing for the brands were operating illegally and exploiting workers. Dior and Armani have said the allegations don’t reflect their commitment to ethical practices, but prosecutors say the issues uncovered by the probe are systemic and entrenched. Around a dozen more brands could still be implicated, with further cases expected in the coming months. This week, BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent discuss the findings of BoF’s own investigation into how exploitative practices persist in luxury’s supply chains and what the scandal means for the industry. Key Insights: Luxury brands use their high prices and Italian manufacturing to sidestep concerns over labour practices frequently levelled against lower-priced labels. But the problems pervade even Italy’s most exclusive supply chains. “This may seem shocking and surprising to those outside this part of the industry, but in Italian manufacturing, everyone knows,” said Kent. “It's an open secret.”BoF’s investigation found brands routinely turn a blind eye to labour exploitation, ignoring red flags raised by audits and sustainability teams in the interest of convenience and cost. New regulations mean the risks associated with such scandals will soon be much more severe. Under incoming European due-diligence rules, brands could be subject to penalties of up to five percent of global revenue if they fail to adequately monitor and prevent labour abuses in their supply chains. “There are still a lot of questions around how that's going to be enforced and what that might actually mean,” said Kent. “But that is a chunky piece of change for any big company.”Additional Res...

2025-01-03•26mins
#46

What Happens When It’s Too Hot to Make Fashion?

In recent years, extreme weather events have become commonplace catastrophes. And in an increasingly globalised fashion system, developing nations often bear the brunt of climate crises. For fashion and its complex global supply chains — which disproportionately depend on resources and labour from these countries near the equator — one of the most urgent issues is extreme heat. In April, the Philippines, Thailand, Bangladesh and India all experienced merciless and sometimes deadly temperatures, which shuttered workplaces and schools. According to the US National Centers for Environmental Information, Africa, Asia, and Europe all logged their warmest Julys since global records began in 1850. To discuss what this means for fashion, BoF’s chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent convened a panel of global experts:Laurie Parsons of Royal Holloway at the University of London, who focuses on the garment industry and climate vulnerability, explains: “What's at stake is the productivity of the industry, the health of the workers and as more and more of these stories come out, the reputation of an industry.” From Brazil, Beto Bina, the founder and CEO of supply chain consultancy FarFarm says: “Thinking as an ecosystem, you can be philanthropic, you can bring in public policies. It’s a job for innovation, for marketing, for sustainability. If you bring these teams together and develop an innovative project to start this new supply chain that could be amazing for everyone.”From Sri Lanka, Abiramy Sivalogananthan, country coordinator at Asia Floor Wage Alliance, who adds: “The freedom of association should be ensured. Workers should be able to talk to be part of the union, to fight for their rights with the factory’s management.” Key Insights: Workers in garment factories face a range of challenges that often go unaddressed, particularly in the Global South. Sivalogananthan highlights the critical need for collective bargaining to give workers a voice in addressing thes...

2024-12-26•21mins
#47

Alessandro Michele and Jacopo Venturini on the New Valentino

Over the summer, BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed and editor-at-large Tim Blanks both spent time with Valentino’s new creative director Alessandro Michele to learn about his vision for the fabled Roman couture house.One thing became clear in those conversations. Alessandro was drawn to Valentino in part because it would reunite him with Valentino’s CEO, Jacopo Venturini. Alessandro and Jacopo first made magic at Gucci, alongside CEO Marco Bizzari, when the luxury megabrand quadrupled its profits after a period of slow growth in the post-Tom Ford era. There is a special symbiosis in their pursuit of creativity and business, based on a strong emotional connection and a shared passion for creating beautiful things together.In their first-ever joint talk, Alessandro and Jacopo joined Tim Blanks at BoF VOICES 2024 to share their plans for Valentino and go inside their unique creative process.Key Insights: Michele describes his approach to Valentino as a blend of honouring its heritage while infusing it with his own perspective. "I try to be gentle … It’s not my place, it’s me working in that place,” he explains. “There is always a conversation [with Valentino].” Michele acknowledges that his work divides opinions, especially online. “Some people feel aggressive in front of the freedom of someone else … I’m happy with myself because I am free.” Finishing the thought, Venturini says Michele’s work embodies “genius creativity that starts with real freedom … He has eyes that open the eyes of someone else.” Venturini further highlights how creativity fuels not just design but the entire business ecosystem. “Our company is really human-centric and creativity-centric,” he says. “The goal is to translate this energy into the real world without losing any of it."Michele embraces the inherent unpredictability of the fashion industry, stating, "I’m understanding that you cannot really plan in fashion." He likens his role at Valentino to cultivating a "beautiful garden" where exper...

2024-12-20•35mins
#48

BoF’s Top Stories of 2024

As the year comes to a close, BoF’s executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young look back on some of their favourite articles from 2024. The stories include topics that dominated industry conversations throughout the year, as well as some that have had key updates since publication.The four articles they discuss are “How Nike Ran Off Course” by sports correspondent Daniel-Yaw Miller, Butler-Young’s three-part Black beauty series, “The Fight for Influencer Marketing Dollars Heats Up” by senior news and features editor Diana Pearl and “Inside Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem” by sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent. The conversation wraps up with a set of predictions for what’s to come in 2025.Key Insights:Miller’s “How Nike Ran Off Course” topped the list of key stories from 2024. It was a trying year for the brand, marred by declining sales quarter after quarter. Many pointed to former CEO John Donahoe as the source, with marketing and product feeling stale since he joined in 2020. “This was the year where it really crystallized that there were viable alternatives to Nike in the market,” said Baskin, with competitors encroaching from all sides. Looking ahead, Butler-Young said “Nike is not resting on its laurels” and is doing a lot to try to “turn around a very large ship,” starting with selecting a new CEO, longtime Nike executive Elliott Hill.Sarah Kent’s story, “Inside Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem,” digs into this year’s viral scandal surrounding luxury brands’ labour practices. “It found that luxury brands that manufacture in Italy…routinely turn a blind eye to labour exploitation in their supply chain,” said Butler-Young. “They ignore red flags raised by audits and sustainability teams for the sake of convenience and cost.” Dior in particular faced social media backlash for “the disparity between what people pay for products and then some of the things that happen in the supply chain,” said Butler-Young. Next year,...

2024-12-18•29mins
#49

How Independent Brands Can Thrive in a Fashion World Ruled by Giants

Background:In a slowing luxury and fashion market, it’s not just the big brands and e-commerce companies that are being impacted. Independent fashion designers around the world — from China to the US to Europe — are facing a barrage of challenges too. As more multi-brand retailers shut down, this not only puts tremendous cash flow pressure on small fashion businesses, but they are also losing their main channels to reach customers. Alongside other factors like inflation, Brexit and growing geo-political turmoil, it becomes almost impossible to build a sustainable, independent fashion business.But there is hope. According to London-based designer Roksanda Ilincic, “the beauty of an independent brand is that you can quickly adapt, quickly change. You can try to find a solution, maybe even quicker than a big giant.”To examine this topic at BoF VOICES 2024, 1 Granary founder Olya Kuryshchuk hosted a panel on independent fashion, with Ilincic, publicist and consultant Bohan Qiu, and the designer and Antwerp Royal Academy director Brandon Wen. Key Insights:The traditional reliance on multi-brand stores and fashion shows is shifting, with young designers exploring direct-to-consumer models and leveraging emerging technologies. Qui notes that new opportunities are coming from grassroots movements and emerging markets. “I feel like there is going to be this next movement where it’s coming from the streets, it’s coming from the underground, it’s coming from the youth culture that are so sick and tired of the current system. They want to overthrow and build something so strong that our current system can no longer neglect it.”For Wen, fashion education must evolve to prepare students for the realities of a saturated market. While fostering creativity, institutions should also teach practical skills like budgeting and business management to ensure graduates can navigate the industry successfully. “They need a lot more business advice and opportunities … they also should know...

2024-12-13•21mins
#50

The Future of DEI and ESG in a Hostile Political Environment

In the late 2010s, and particularly after George Floyd’s murder in 2020, the fashion industry appeared to embrace a progressive awakening on issues like racial justice and climate change. Diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) departments were established, and companies announced ambitious sustainability targets. Yet, from the outset, critics - often from the same communities these initiatives aimed to support - questioned the authenticity of this activism, suggesting it was more about marketing than meaningful change.Now, those sceptics may have been proven right. Following the 2023 Supreme Court ruling against affirmative action, companies have begun scaling back hiring initiatives, grants for Black founders, and other DEI efforts. Sustainability commitments are also under scrutiny, with the industry far behind its climate goals and facing a hostile political environment in the US. Executive editor Brian Baskin is joined by sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to untangle the future of DEI and ESG (environmental, social, and governance).Key Insights: Diversity and inclusion in fashion was built on already fragile foundations. “Most companies didn’t have a DEI department before George Floyd,” Butler-Young points out. She explains that these departments were often created hastily and emotionally, which left them vulnerable to becoming performative. “We never moved beyond that conversation into ‘how is this good for business? Why does this matter for a company beyond social good?’”"The acronym DEI has become so politicised,’” continues Butler-Young. "Something that started off as having some good intentions and some really value-driven tenets, and suddenly it's co-opted and becomes something almost derogatory." Companies are now moving away from the language, but that often means moving away from the work as well. The story in the world of sustainability contains some parallels. “What we’ve begun to see in a handful ...

2024-12-10•26mins

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